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October 2009 - Turkey, Greece

October 31, 2009

Hi everyone, Happy Halloween. Can't wait to see what Maddie and Josie are wearing. It was a secret so I can only imagine until we have good internet again:-) We got some shopping in before Mike flew home on October 27. We got some nice gifts for his family. We met a taxi driver on the street and made arrangements for him to take Mike to the airport the next day. Well we took him to shore to meet his taxi at 0500. I think he was surprised that the guy showed up. We left Fethiye on Thursday October 29 at 4:30 AM and arrived here in Kekova Roads around 3:30. Some friends from Kemer are here too. Al did some more varnishing yesterday and then we had lunch with Bob and Judy "Pooh Bear" Americans from Texas. We've had fun catching up on their adventures and sharing ours. Another boat came in last night Avalon Lullabye friends from New Jersey so we'll stay today to visit with them. If the weather is good we may go the last 57 nm to Kemer on Sunday. Happy weekend to all Love and God Bless Sally and Al

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Fethiye Hiking Club | Kabat Beach and Butterfly Valley

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Fethiye Hiking Club | Kabat Beach and Butterfly Valley

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Fethiye Hiking Club | Kabat Beach and Butterfly Valley

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Fethiye Hiking Club | Kabat Beach and Butterfly Valley

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Fethiye Hiking Club | Kabat Beach and Butterfly Valley

October 25, 2009

Hi everyone, Saturday Oct. 24 Al and I worked on the teak toe rail varnish in the morning. Then in the afternoon we took Mike on a successful shopping trip in town. He found most everything on his gift list:-) Yesterday we joined the Fethiye local hiking club for a spectacular all day hike. ( We met at 9 AM and stuffed 50 people into two small buses. At one point the driver was sitting on someone else's lap. Then we proceeded to drive on a twisting road dug into the steep cliffs of Mt. Baba. Talk about white knuckles and fantastic views... The bus dropped us in the mountain terrace village of Faralya which overlooks Butterfly Valley. Our trail was part of the Lycian Way (ancient Roman road some dating to Hittite times)from Fethiye to Antalya. We hiked down rugged paths and around terraced and wooded areas finally arriving at Mama's Restaurant. Then we hiked down another half hour on a steep rugged path to Kabat Beach. Mike swam. Al and I forgot our suits and we had a picnic lunch. Not understanding how this Turkish group of hiker's operated. We hiked out of the beach area two hours before they were ready to leave. Oh well we had a beer and took in a Turkish wedding dance at Mama's Restaurant. This was the same wedding we had experienced back in Fethiye on Friday. Evidently they beat drums and play music and celebrate for 3 days. First in the groom's village on Friday, Saturday in the bride's village and then Sunday is the wedding. Someone would fire off a shot gun periodically. What we mistakenly thought were blanks turned out to be real shot gun pellets. Little bb's rained down where we sat drinking our beer. We headed back to Fethiye around 4:30. The driver stopped on the cliffs overlooking butterfly valley so we could take breath taking photo's that will never do the site justice. We arrived back to the boat after dark. It was a tiring but exhilirating day! Love and God bless Sally and Al

October 24, 2009

Hi everyone, We checked back into Turkey yesterday and got our new transit log. Once again we were successful in not being forced to hire an agent. People have paid between 30-100 Euro to check in or out of Turkey this summer and we heard the horror story of a boat paying $650 in Istanbul. We checked out 3 times and in 3 times this summer with no agent:-) It took us under two hours so not bad. We had a great lunch along the harbor at Oz Gaziantep. We had kebap rolled sandwiches and some amazing spicy meza's. We saw some other customers eating them so we just had to try it too. The gentleman came over and asked how we liked them and then proceeded to tell us how they were made and that all the good food comes from his hometown along the Syrian border. (can't remember the town:-( Last night we had some Kemer friendsoff "Baracca" a New Zealand boat for cocktails and to share summer stories.

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Hike Karakoy to Oludeniz beach

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Hike Karakoy to Oludeniz beach

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Hike Karakoy to Oludeniz beach

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Fethiye | Hike Karakoy to Oludeniz beach

October 23, 2009

Today we went on a two hour hike from Karakoy to Oludeniz beach with 3 other couples. It was a pretty well marked trail so we didn't get lost this time. We took a taxi to Karakoy and then walked up through the Old Greek village now a "Ghost town" to catch the Oludeniz trail. The first hour we climbed up the rocky forested mountain and had great views of Cold Water Bay and Oludeniz as we climbed down. We took a dolmus (bus) back to Fethiye and had a doner sandwich before heading back to the boat. Mike and Al fiddled with the Yamaha 4 stroke and got it running for the first time this summer. Tonight we're having cocktails with Keith and Karen from Guernsey England. We met them on Simi and they are wintering here in Fethiye. Hope all is well and Happy weekend. We've had internet off and on here on the boat so we'll try to skype some this weekend

Wednesday Oct. 21

Fueled up and left Rhodes Mandraki Harbor at 10:15 and dropped anchor in Fethiye Turkey at 6:15. Fueling was a bit of a hassle as he tried to charge us for the 50 liters in his hose before even reaching our boat. But we put him straight...We had a great sailing day only motoring out of the harbor and into the anchorage today. Lots of wind and lots of sunshine. Fortunately it was mostly a downwind sail. Our friends Dick and Ginger on Alchemy are in the anchorage too. We look forward to seeing them in the morning.

October 18, 2009

We motor/sailed over to Rhodes, Greece in the morning. Perfect timing. We arrived as another boat was leaving so we got a spot in Mandraki Harbor. It was a good thing we detoured the night before as the harbor was full and the unfinished harbor we've been using as back up is no longer available. They hope to complete the harbor by next spring but in the mean time no one is allowed in. Sunday we wandered around Old Town Rhodes and we visited the Gr and Knights Castle.

Yesterday October 19 Al and I rented a car and did our shopping for our winter in Turkey while Mike explored more of Old Town. Today we drove to Lindos and visited the town and acropolis. It was quite spectacular. Then we drove around Rhodes through the mountains and enjoyed many spectacular views of the sea and mountain canyons. We checked out of Greece so we can leave in the morning. We had drinks with Lynn and Tony on Sir Anthony an English boat. Great people. We'll leave for Fethiye tomorrow after we take on fuel. Hope all is well on the home front. Happy birthday to sister Katie. Love and God Bless Sally and Al

Hi everyone, We went up to Pethi on Simi last Saturday October 17 but brother Mike put his back out. So we decided to move on rather than be somewhere Al and I already know well. We headed for Rhodes but the wind was on the nose so we detoured to Buzuk Buku an anchorage along the Turkish coast. We had a nice sheltered but gusty spot for the night. About 10:00 I looked out and saw a boat along side. It was a British boat we had met on Simi and they were dragging anchor. We blew our horn and got there attention. After that all went well for the evening.

14, 2009

Hi everyone, We had a great 2.5 days visit at Kos. We stayed in the Old Kos Harbor beneath the castle walls. After our arrival at Kos on October 12 We had a bit of excitement. While Al was gone checking us into the harbor Mike and I decided to go visit the Fortress we were moored beneath. We were up in the fort looking down on the harbor and a charter boat came in. As we watched he was backing right over our anchor chain and got hung up. Mike and I ran back to the boat to hold Artemis off the quay. Even after Al came back it took another half hour for a diver to tell him he wasn't hung up but his prop blade was broken off. The diver then tried to get money from us for having got the Charter boat off of our chain. Wrong!! Now if this wasn't enough later in the evening right at dusk the harbor master tried to bring a catamaran into the spot next to us which was barely big enough for another sailboat. Al gave him "what for" but they kept on coming until finally they realized there just was not enough room. The guy yelled at us don't worry I not touch your "f.." boat. He got really huffy as he pulled away. Fortunately another boat moved in and the spot was full.

Yesterday October 13 we hiked all around the ruins, Roman house and odeum. We had lunch at our favorite Gyro place. Today we took the wrong little train to go visit Hippocrates's Hospital site and ended up riding around the same streets we walked yesterday. We decided to skip it and get checked out of Kos. Then we went to Carrefour and Lidl's grocery shopping.

Aegean Sea | Greece | Tilos Island | view from anchorage

We quickly got things put away and left Kos about 2:00. We were heading to Niros but the wind just didn't want us to go that way so we altered course for Tilos Island and arrived in time to set our anchor before dark at 7:30. It was great sailing winds for that heading but we motor sailed so we could arrive before dark. We plan to spend two nights here before heading on to Simi. Love and God Bless Sally, Al and Mike

Aegean Sea | Greece | Leros Island | Xerokampos Bay |

Aegean Sea | Greece | Leros Island | Xerokampos Bay | Panagia Kavouradena

October 11, 2009

Hi everyone, We had a lovely quiet evening once the Greek Warship left the dock with his loud generator running. Those big guns were quite intimidating. We had a leisurely sail to Xerokampos Bay on the southern end of Leros Island. We dropped anchor in crystal clear water 26 ft deep. Just like last night's anchorage we watched the anchor dig in. We walked up to a little church and cemetery. A man saw us walking around and he ran barefoot over to the church with the key so we could see the church. It was quite lovely. The Greek Orthodox churches cover the walls with bible story murals in bright colors and lots of silver icons. Then we hiked up to an old fort and chapel above the harbor. We had fantastic views of Port Lakki and of Artemis in Xerokampos Bay. When we got back it was time for a swim. Mike snorkeled, Al washed the stripe on the boat and Sally just paddled around. We plan to grill pork chops tonight and watch the stars come out. Now that the moon comes up so late and it's waning it's dark enough to lose ourselves in the starlight. Happy Sunday. Love and God Bless Sally, Al, and Mike

Aegean Sea | Greece | Samos Island | Roman ruins by Church

Aegean Sea | Greece | Samos Island | Pithagoreio Harbor

October 10, 2009

Hi everyone, We had a nice day hiking around Pithagoreio Harbor on Samos today. We explored the castle and Roman ruins by the church. Then we walked the beach. We had Gyro's for lunch on the harbor front. Then we picked up fruits, vegetables, and meat before going back to Artemis.

We decided to haul anchor and sail 18 nm to Nisos Agathonisi. What a beautiful anchorage below a picturesque Chora and small fishing village. The anchorage is like glass unlike the one foot chop we had at Samos. Tomorrow we are heading for Kos Island. Mike's all excited because he saw his first goat. Unbelievable that it took this long to see one. Spagetti for dinner tonight so I'd better get going.

Love and God Bless Sally, Al and Mike

October 9, 2009

Hi everyone, yesterday October 8 we did a few things around the boat, got some gas for the dingy, made stuffed green peppers for lunch and tomorrow's dinner. We hiked into Chios town to get our Greek Transit Log back and to use the internet. We picked up a few groceries and then headed back to Artemis. The wind finally quit howling about 8PM.

October 9, Samos Island Greece

Aegean Sea | Greece | Samos Island | Samos Town | view from anchorage

Aegean Sea | Greece | Samos Island |Pitagoreio Limenas anchorage

October 9 We left this morning at 7 AM and dropped anchor in Pitagoreio Limenas on Samos at 7 PM. We sailed 8 hours and motor sailed the rest. It was a great day, sunny and enough wind to sail without a motor:-) We plan to move into Samos Harbor off the town quay tomorrow. After the sunshine and fresh breeze all day we'll sleep welltonight. Love and God Bless Sally, Al and Mike

October 5 Turkey Bademili anchorage

Turkey | Bademili anchorage near Dikili

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Bademili anchorage near Dikili

October 7, 2009

Hi Everyone, We left Ayvalik Turkey for Dikili Turkey on Monday October 5. We cleared customs there. We pulled into the harbor past a huge raft of 4 fishing boats and rafted up to 4 medium sized fishing boats. We were able to see the harbor master right away but had to wait until after lunch to finish up. We were sitting at the custom office when we noticed our boat floating away. The fisherman decided he was going out and he untied us except for one line. Fortunately another fisherman held that line and Al and Mike ran over and took control. We went down the coast about 10 nm to Bademili anchorage for the night. Beautiful clear water so we went for a swim. Mike had great fun diving off the boat. Al put on the Sea Breathe and cleaned the prop and the impeller for the knot meter. They had lots of barnacles on them from our 5 weeks in Pendik.

Aegean Sea | Greece | Chios Island |Neo Moni Monastery

Yesterday October 6 we went 50 nm to Chios unfinished harbor. The wind picked up the last 3 hours and we had a great sail. We walked half hour into town to clear customs and get our Greek travel log. Then we rented a car and drove back to the boat. Today we had a great day exploring Chios. We climbed many a mountain and visited many a beach.

Aegean Sea | Greece | Chios Island |Mastic Village Pyrgi

Aegean Sea | Greece | Chios Island |Mastic Village Pyrgi

Aegean Sea | Greece | Chios Island | Neo Moni Monastery

It was great fun showing Mike the places we visited last May. Neo Moni Monastery and the Mastic Villages were the highlights of the day. We actually ran into people we knew from Kemer (Sue and David from Paroo). We had a nice lunch in Emporio and discovered from the waiter our friends Steve and Pam had eaten there 2 weeks ago. Small world. Mike's mousakas was the best meal of the three. Mike and I returned the rental car so we had a half hour walk back to the boat tonight. We were ready for a beer:-) Tomorrow we plan to explore Chios Town. We love getting mail:-)

Love and God Bless Sally, Al and Mike F

Turkey | Aegean Sea | Ayvalik Archipelago |Alibey Island |harbor | Artemis at anchor

Turkey | Aegean Sea | Ayvalik Archipelago | Pasa Koyu anchorage

October 3, 2009

Hi Everyone

We had a fun morning yesterday exploring Alibey island. Then we motored over to Pasa Koyu anchorage about 3nm away. We caught a bus on the highway into Ayvalik to buy groceries. We also went to a Travel Agent so Mike could buy his ticket back to Istanbul. Early evening we watched a Turkish sailboat arrive. They motored by and asked if we would come in our "spare boat" (dingy) to bring them to shore. They were getting their "spare boat" from shore. So Al ran Burhan to shore. He discovered Burhan had just purchased this boat and plans to leave it anchored in this bay near his summer home. We grilled some steaks for dinner and had a quiet evening with a full moon.

Today we caught a ride into Ayvalik by a passing motorist. We looked around and had a nice lunch before heading back. Wouldn't you know the same motorist drove by and picked us up again:-) When we got back to the boat we noticed the Turkish boat "Aloha" that Al helped last night had floated by our boat and was headed for shallow water. Mike and Al took our stern anchor over and secured "Aloha" We called the Turkish Coast and they came out but once they saw the boat was secure they left.

Burhan came back about 6 PM because he had forgotten his cell phone on the boat and to bring Al a bottle of Raki for helping him last night. I think he was quite confused as to why his boat moved. Al went with him to untangle the anchor and move his boat to a more secure position. He retrieve our anchor and they came back to our boat for a few beers and great conversation. Burhan knows some English and we drew lots of pictures. His kids know English so he's learning from them. He actually called his daughter and explained what had happened and she told us how thankful her father was. Tu His daughter is married and teaches English in Istanbul and his son is in his last year of school in New York. This was a very special to remember. Love and God Bless Sally and al

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Assos Harbor |Artemis moored at lunch restaurant

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Assos Harbor |Fishing boats

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Assos Harbor | shallow entrance

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Assos Harbor |Temple of Athena and Acropolis |Theater ruins

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Assos Harbor |Great views from Temple of Athena

October 1, 2009

Hi Everyone We left our lovely anchorage on west side of Sivrice Cove at 0730 AM and motored to Behram Kale (Ancient Assos harbor) about 6 nm away. It was pretty hairy going in as the harbor is only dredged 2-2.5m and the tide was out. We draw 2 meters. We tied alongside a gullet and picked up a mooring ball in front of a restaurant. We put on our hiking shoes and climbed the road and trails up 781 ft to the temple of Athena and Acropolis. Great ruins. We had fun tramping around and the views were spectacular over looking Lesvos, Greece and Ayvalik Turkey across Edremit Bay. We had a theatre, Stoa, agora, Bouleuterion, Gymnasium, and Acropolis area to explore. We got back down to the boat about 1:00 (3.5 hours) and ate lunch at the restaurant we were tied up too. We had the fantastic grilled sea bass and a salad. The sea bass truly was the best prepared we've had since being in the Med and we have eaten a lot of it:-) We took a walk around the harbor and noted that the tide was now in allowing us another foot of water than we had coming in.

October 2 - Ayvalik Archipelago , Alibey, Turkey

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Avalyik Archipelago | Alibey Island |

Aegean Sea | Turkey | Avalyik Archipelago | Alibey Island |Artemis in Cunda anchorage

So we decided to leave for Avalyik archipelago area rather than risk the wind coming up and not being able to get out in the morning. We plan to stay in Avalyik area until Monday as we are expecting strong southerlies over the weekend. Tonight we are in Alibey/Cunda anchorage and then we plan to move to another anchorage Camlik Koyu tomorrow for more protection out of the south. It's a good place to be holed up for a few days as there is a big town, markets and hiking. Love and God Bless, Sally, Al and Mike F.

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