July 2007 - Croatia, Italy

Italy | Vieste | Vieste Harbor

Italy | Vieste | sun dried tomatoes

July 31, 2007

We decided to stay another day in Vieste. Big cold front coming across the Adriatic. Lots of NE wind and storms although it hasn't stormed here yet. The winds been blowing 20-30 kts all day and the big fishing boats all came in and are four deep against the quay. We put a coat of Sikkens on the lower teak deck this morning. Now this afternoon we're doing sewing projects. Al fixed the stitching on the main sail cover and we added another 8 inches to the cover. It never covered the whole sail. Now it does :-> Next project was four mesh bags to store electrical cords and hoses in. They were forever getting tangled up in the cockpit locker. Vic from Belgium walked by and he questioned weather we were on vacation or working. We answered today is a work day. Hopefully this front will move on through and we can continue to head south tomorrow. We found a man in Bari who can update the software on our Furuno radar/plotter so we can use the new Navionics chip we bought for the Mediterranean.

Love Sally and Al

Italy | Viesta | anchorage outside Vieste Harbor

July 30, 2007

Hi, We had a lovely night at anchorage and then moved into the Vieste harbor Monday morning after filling up with diesel. We went walking and shopping for three hours. We found a big open air fruit and vegetable market and several grocery stores. Al found an electrical shop and decided to buy cord to make a longer shore power cord. The cathedral was open put the castle is a military base so we couldn't go in it. We decided to go back and take a berth in the harbor. We visited with Catherine one of the owners of the dock we are on. She is from Toronto, Canada. She came on vacation, met her husband Antonio and has lived most of their married life here in Italy. Catherine gave us directions to shops we were looking for and we went out about town for another three hours. We get a lot more exercise in Italy than Croatia.

Love Sally and Al

July 29, 2007

Hi, We had a nice uneventful passage to Viesta, Italy. Light NW winds gave us extra speed. We saw dophins about 6 miles out. Our first since leaving Italy last May. Perhaps they are charged to live in Croatian waters... We arrived in Vieste, Italy about 7:30. Our new cruising guide for Adriatic describes Vieste as a small town and the harbor as over crowded. So the best option was to take one of 4 protected good holding anchorages. Well the EU has made some improvements. Vieste will be a huge marina when it is completed. For now nothing looks as our guide shows and about 3 different ormeggiatori were whistling and waving us into their spot. Since we had no lines or fenders out we decided to leave the harbor for a quiet anchorage outside and go back in the morning to check in.

Love Sally and Al

July 28, 2007

Hi, We had a lazy, quiet day on Saturday. We went ashore in Komiza, Otok Viz and checked out with the Port Captain and made arrangements to check out with the police at 6 AM Sunday. When we asked him when he would be in Komiza at first he said 8:00 and we said that was good. Then he said but if you want I will be here at 6:00. We said whatever works best for you. So he said I'll meet you at 6:00. An English couple we had met in Dubrovnik boat "Margareta" came into the anchorage. The invited us over for a glass of wine. Lovely couple, both retired doctors. It is now Sunday morning 9:00 and Al is just now back from clearing out with the police. He acted like he had never seen him before and we had talked to him for two days in a row. Oh well, maybe he's just not very bright. We have 70 nm to go. Not much wind so it'll be a motor/sail day. Hopefully we'll get there before dark tonight. There are several good anchorages so we don't have to worry too much about arriving late. Using our Italian sim card cell phone for a few weeks 0039 346 772 6629.

Love Sally and Al

July 26 & 27, 2007

Hi, The wind quieted down and we had a restful night on Wed. After breakfast Thursday, I went up the mast to the spreaders to grab the flag halyard that had broken loose. It was my first time and it was a lot easier than climbing that bell tower the other day :-> A couple of mega yachts in the anchorage. One is about a 200 ft sailboat. The other is a 200 ft mega yacht with a helicopter on deck. They launched about a 30 foot launch and took off for a tour. We never saw names on the boats as with their garage doors open the names weren't visible. We went into the town of Vis to explore. Lots of narrow stone streets and Venetian Gothic buildings. Our Lady of Spilica was a neat church. It seems the oldest and most interesting buildings in Europe are churches or castles.

Croatia | Otok Vis | Komisa | Good-bye Croatia dinner

Today we went around Vis island to Komisa. Another neat village. We passed by a hillside with machine gun pill boxes. The town is quite lovely. We are anchored outside the harbor near the swim beach. We plan to go tonight for dinner. We'll check out of Croatia tomorrow and then cross to Vieste, Italy on Sunday weather permitting.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Otok Vis |Komisa

Croatia | Otok Vis |Village Kut anchorage

Croatia | Otok Vis| Village Kut anchorage

Croatia | Otoc Vis| Komisa

July 25, 2007

Hi, We decided to go out to dinner last night about 8:30. We found a nice Panorama Konaba (restaurant) up near the cathedral. We ate on the terrace overlooking the sea. The breeze made for a pleasant evening. We had a mixed fish grill for two. It included tuna steak, calamari, octopus, crayfish, and a local "sea bass" (I think that means catch of the day). It was all wonderful and we'd order it again. It came with spinach potatoes (interesting combination) and bread. We were able to get water this morning so we didn't leave Primosten until 9:00.

We had a great motor sail to the island of Vis. This was a military base during World War II. It wasn't until 1989 visitors were allowed to land on the island. We haven't seen much except from our anchorage as the wind was blowing across the bay and we didn't want to leave the boat. We are actually anchored outside the village of Kut but Vis is only half a mile across the bay. Looking back toward mainland about 25 miles away we can see a forest fire burning. It's a different fire from yesterdays. This one appears to be somewhere between Trogir (where we were yesterday on the bus) and Split. The strong winds make it difficult to bring it under control. We saw fire fighting planes carrying water to the fire this morning. It's about 8:00 and the winds have quieted down. But we'll wait until morning to put the dinghy in the water and go sight seeing.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Trogir

Croatia | Trogir

July 24, 2007

Hi, Hot and windy. We saw 35kts during the night. It was nice being at the quay and running our air conditioner! Today we took a bus to the island of Trogir to buy a fan belt and sight see. The old town is very lovely and connected to mainland by a short bridge. We had lunch then went walking. The town was first settled by the Greeks of Issa in 380 BC. Then the Romans arrived in 78 AD. The Cathedral of St. Lawrence is spectacular.

Croatia | Trogir |view from St. Michael's Bell Tower

Croatia | Trogir | view from St. Michael's Bell Tower

I climbed the Bell Tower, scary but fantastic views. It wasn't too bad until I got to the open metal steps and the open arches. It was kind of freaky without walls around me as I climbed. The views of the town and the sea were fantastic so I guess it was worth it. Kamerlengo Castle(once the Venetian governor's palace, 1430) and St. Mark's Tower (built in 1470), Loggia and Clock Tower, and the palaces made for great photo shots. We found an auto parts store for our fan belt and headed back to Primosten. Tried to fill our water tanks and wash the boat only to discover the water was turned off. There is a forest fire north of here and a water ban is in effect. Should have filled up yesterday. Oh well. Hopefully we can fill up in Stari Grad. We still have half of our supply but we like to fill up when we take a berth.

Love Sally and Al

July 22 & 23, 2007

Hi, Another hot hot day. We stayed at Uvala Mir, Dugi Otok on our mooring buoy for another day. The park service men came by for garbage but no charge for the second day on the buoy. We took a picnic lunch and went on a dinghy cruise. It was too hot to walk the trail to the salt lake. It was a windier afternoon and evening so I didn't swim but Al dunked in a few times. It was dead calm this morning.

We left the anchorage at 6:30 planning to go back to Kanal SV Ante. We had spectacular vistas of the Kornati Island. Very little foliage, just rocky gray islands. Every quarter of a mile there was a rock fence that went from the shore over the mountain top. We went by Kaprije Otok but the quay was full and we wanted water and to run our air conditioner so we headed for Primosten where we stayed last week. We got the last spot at the quay and turned on the air. Relief... We were able to change oil and transmission fluid in comfort!! The wind has picked up from the SE and it's very hot, humid and hazy. Weare wondering if this is a real sirocco? (southerly or southeasterly wind from Africa) If it is, it sometimes takes 2 or 3 days to blow past. Sometimes lots of red, dusty rain. I guess time will tell. We're in a good spot so we'll wait and see.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Dugi Otok | Telascica Nature Park|Uvala Mir

July 21, 2007

Hi, What a hot muggy night. I almost had Al get up and turn on the air conditioning. When we got up this morning everything was dripping from heavy dew. We left the anchorage about 10:00 to go about 28 nm. We thought we were going to have a nice down wind sail but once we got all the sails up it died down to us moving about 2.5 kts :-( We hung with it for about an hour and finally started motoring again. We traveled on the sea side of Dugi Otok all day. The cliffs are steep and water is deep right up to shore. We took a mooring buoy in Telascica Nature Park at the south end of Dugi Otok in Uvala Mir. Lovely steep cliffs and a salt lake to walk to when it's cooler out.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Otok Molat | Uvala Podgarbe

July 20, 2007

Hi, We did boat projects this morning and then motored to Uvala Podgarbe on Otok Molat. I did laundry as we traveled. Al bought an industrial wringer when we were home and it works great. It gets the water out of the clothes (no more blisters) and they dry so much faster. Podgarbe is a nice uninhabited anchorage. We did some more boat projects, swam many times, and took a dinghy ride. That's about all you feel like doing in this heat. The water is so nice and clear, refreshing. You can see down over 30 feet easily and a sand bottom. Kind of like Lake Superior only much warmer. Trying to make our T Mobile sim card work for our internet. No easy deal when you don't speak Croatian. I guess we'll have to go back into Zadar and go to T Mobile for some help.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Zadar

Croatia | Zadar |St. Mary's Church

July 19, 2007

Hi, We had a lovely motoring day checking out the sights along Otok Pasman and Otok Uglian. We went into Zadar on the mainland for fuel, money, groceries, and internet. Beautiful city, the cruising guide doesn't do it justice. We were only allowed to be tied to the quay for a two hour visit so we only had a small taste of what it had to offer. The old town is quite clean and busy. Archaeologists are working near the Cathedral of St. Anastasia on Roman forum ruins. The Church of St. Donat also built on the paving stones of the Roman forum in early 9th century and using the old honey colored stone from the Roman forum. Could have spent more time here but maybe we'll come back. No anchorages near by and didn't want to spend the big bucks in the marina. We motored back up to the north end of Otok Uglian and dropped anchor in Moline bay. Another steamy, hot day. Thank goodness for a cool sea and a nice breeze.

Love Sally and Al

July 18, 2007

Hi, Printed and scanned some documents and pictures this morning. So we left the anchorage around 11:00 and motor sailed up to Otok Pasman. We had one good hour with sails alone. We had planned to anchor but picked up a mooring ball for 70 kuna (not mentioned in either cruising guide but worth it) about 4:00 in U. Landin. That may explain why the bay next door U. Zincena we were originally headed for looked so crowded. But that bay may have mooring buoys too. We didn't go in and look. Very hot wind blowing through the anchorage. We found a "fly" on board that covers the upper deck over the boom. What a difference that makes in the cabin. We had a nice swim and decided to grill again tonight.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Sibenik | Cathedral of St. James

Croatia | Sibenik | Lourdes Grotto

July 17, 2007

Hi, Another lovely day on the Krka River. We motored down to Sibenik and picked up some fuel. We tied off to the quay for 4 hours and visited this lovely old town. The cathedral of St. James was spectacular. Built in a Gothic-Renaissance style completely of stone. The dome is interlocking slabs of stone, amazing. The old town was fun to walk through, alleys, stairways...

We motored down to Capljena bay and anchorage near the end of Kanal SV Ante leading back into the Med from the Krka River. Fun to watch Croatian families play along the shore. Daddy giving the kids "hyper-dives" as our boys called them. It always feels so good to jump in and cool off. The days are extremely hot but it generally cools off in the evening. Decided to grill a steak tonight.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Krka River | Krka National Park | Skradinski Buk Falls

Croatia | Krka National Park | Skradinski Buk falls

Croatia | Krka National Park | Skradinski Buk Falls

July 16, 2007

Hi, We had a wonderful evening at Beretusc anchorage. The stars were magnificent. Much like the skies on the Canadian North shore... so far from the city lights the stars more numerous and brilliant. We had a full day today. We left the boat around 8:00 and took the dinghy to Skradin. We caught a ferry boat at 9:00 for the Krka National Park. The Skradinski Buk falls were spectacular. We walked the trail along and above the falls. The park has a working grain mill, blacksmith, laundry and paddle wheel. It was so lovely wandering along the courses of the water fall through the cool forest on such a hot day.

Croatia |Otok Visovoc | Franciscan Monastery

Croatia | Krka River | Krka River Canyon

We had a picnic lunch and then took another ferry above the Skradinski Buk falls through the Krka River canyon. We visited a Franciscan monastery (church and museum) on the island of Visovac and then continued upstream to Roski Slap water falls. There was another mill, loom exhibit, and wicker clothes basked prestntation centers. We went for a swim in cold fresh water! Lovely swimming area!! We got back to the boat about 6:00 and took another swim. This one a little saltier but not as salty as the Med.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Krka River and National Park| Beretusc Bay anchorage

July 15, 2007

Hi, We went to 8:00 mass, standing room only. This time lots of women singing and very few men. Just the opposite of Stari Grad. We had breakfast at a cafe off the harbor. We left for Krka River and National Park at 10:30. We had a short sail before heading up the river. It was a pretty passage up the river (about 8 miles). We dropped anchor about 3 miles from Skradin in Beretusc bay.

Croatia | Krka River | Skradin

We dropped the dinghy in the water and put on the 15 HP. Skradin is a cute quiet tourist town. The ACI marina is there and the river boats that take you into the National Park to the waterfalls. We plan to take the trip tomorrow. We have to take the river boat to Skradinski Buk (falls) as no other motorized boats are allowed in the park. We saw a picante pizza sign and just had to stop for a late lunch. It was some of the best we've had in Croatia. Enjoying a nice quiet anchorage off the river.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Primosten

July 14, 2007

Hi, We got up early (6 AM) today and put the dinghy on deck and headed north to Primosten. We took showers under weigh to use up water in the tanks. It's a cute little tourist town. We arrived by 10:30. We took a spot on the quay so we could fill our water tanks and wash the boat. It's so nice having a clean boat after two weeks at anchor :-> We walked around town after lunch and had an Italian ice cream cone. Our regular Croatian ice cream cones have not been very flavorful. Al took a nap (didn't sleep well last night after our ramming) and I read my book. We reported "the incident" to our insurance company although we're pretty sure it's not above our deductible. We wanted them to be aware in case the French boat's insurance company contacts them. We went for a swim, bought a bottle of local wine, and grilled on the George Foreman. We'll sleep good tonight not worrying about other boats or dragging anchor.

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Split

Croatia | Split | Seaside Promenade

Croatia |Split | Clock Bell Tower

July 13, 2007

Hi, Another Friday the 13th this time in Split! We got our new life line and put it on this morning. Fits great. We did some grocery shopping preparing to move on tomorrow. Along about 4:30 a sailboat came into the harbor under sail. She kept coming straight at us. Al kept yelling turn the boat...sail the boat. No motor she kept yelling but didn't think to sail the boat and ran straight into our port quarter. We pushed her off but she continued to just drift finally sailing off the next boat. An Englishman in a dinghy came along side and told her to pull her sail down and he towed her away from the next boat. Al and Christian got into their dinghies to help. What a mess. Finally tied them off of another boat until someone from the harbor could come and tow them in.

We have a bent stanchion and a huge gouge in our teak toe rail. It could have been much worse but bad enough. Al had to take our documents and go make a report with the Harbor Authorities. We were told that since 1991 where we were anchored is no longer a designated anchorage and if we filed a police report we would be fined 5000 Kunas ($1000) We have an new 1007-2008 Croatian written cruising guide which says it is an anchorage and 25 other boats are anchored here. Oh well we'll see how it all turns out as the French boat turned it in to their insurance. As I said It could have been worse as they just missed our shrouds. Love and God bless

Love Sally and Al

July 12, 2007

Hi, We had a wonderful day in Split. We found a rigger in the marina who is making us a new life line to replace the broken one. We walked and walked through town. We visited two museums and just enjoyed the Roman/Venetian archetecture. Our American friends from Milwaukee, invited us over for cocktails. An Australian couple joined us and then left for a dinner engagement. Another couple from France joined us for dinner at Konoba Varos. Great food (steak)and great company. Tired...

Love Sally and Al

July 11, 2007

Hi we decided to head for Split Harbor on the mainland today. Winds were suppose to be 6-15 out of the NW early switching to SW. Wrong it was NW all day. We motored for 3 hrs right into 15-22 kt. winds and seas. Then about 6 miles from Split we could sail. So up went the main and out came the jib. Great sail for about 45 minutes, just flying doing over 7 kts. Then the wind really started to howl 25-35. Thankfully we only had 3 miles to go. Split Harbor was protected but still blowing like a "son of a gun". We dropped anchor and went below for lunch. Pretty soon a dinghy pulled up to warn us a boat was dragging anchor heading right for us. We had to haul up our anchor and move forward. An arriving French boat followed us as we hauled up our anchor and dropped his right where we had planned to be... Oh well perhaps he thought we were leaving! The wind is beginning to quiet down (6:00) so hopefully we'll have a peaceful night. Maybe we can put the dinghy in the water. 17:30 Put the dinghy in the water and went to town and what a wonderful town it is. Old Roman Palace and wonderful Venetian buildings. We look forward to our visit tomorrow!!

Love Sally and Al

July 10, 2007

Hi, Forecast was for lots of wind and seas today so we decided to stay put for another day on our mooring ball in Stari Grad. We went grocery shopping and then to lunch. We had fried calamari, potatoes, bread, and salad. It was actually much better than I expected. We baby sat Clive's dog Dino while he walked to the next town to see the vet. Dino has a glandular problem and he keeps chewing himself and starts bleeding. He's a Spanish dog and looks like a red/blond German Shepherd. He's been doctoring him for over a year and it keeps flaring up :-( Too windy to grill so we George Foreman our chicken. Beautiful evening. It cooled down and no bugs so we sat in the cockpit until 10:30! love and God Bless

Love Sally and Al

Croatia | Otak Hvar | Hvar | Hvar harbor and Fortress wall

Croatia| Otok Hvar | Hvar harbor

July 9, 2007