April 2018 - Caribbean Leeward Islands, Windward Islands

Caribbean | Leeward Islands | Iles des Saintes | Bourg des Saintes | Notre Dame de l'Assumption

Caribbean | Leeward Islands | Iles des Saintes | Bourg des Saintes | La Fringle

Caribbean | Leeward Islands | Iles des Saintes |Bourg des Saintes

April 1, 2018

Happy Easter! We went to Easter Mass at Notre Dame de L’Assumption. The church was full and music involved much rocking and clapping. Father’s sermon in French must have been quite humorous judging by the amount of laughter throughout his homily. It must have been his last Sunday as a gift was given and tearful speeches made after mass. We had a lovely lunch at La Fringale Restaurant seated in a picturesque courtyard garden. I had a tasty tuna steak with pepper sauce and Al enjoyed grilled mahi-mahi with creole sauce. Also ordered Cod cakes for a starter and yummy desserts served with ice cream. Oh and a crisp white wine to complement it all.

Caribbean | Leeward Islands | Iles des Saintes

April 2, 2018

We had a great sail over to Prince Rupert Bay, Portsmouth, Dominica about 20nm. Squall for half hour then cleared up and continued with a nice sail. We arrived about 1630 and Daniel working for Eddison a PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services). This organization provides lots of services to the cruisers line handling, organizing tours, patrols at night in the anchorage and day time security, take laundry, garbage bring bread and ice. . They want to ensure a happy safe visit to encourage tourism.

Dominica | Portsmouth

April 3, 2018

Took the dingy to clear customs 10EC for 2 week clear-in clear-out all in one deal. Stopped at Indian River to get dingy fuel and ATM. Then tied to fishing pier and walked about Portsmouth. The villiage was destroyed during the hurricane but people are working hard and things are being done. We stopped at Ray’s Roti for lunch. Roti is a curry chicken and potato in a wrap. Very good and inexpensive. We stopped at the PAYS office and visited with Eddison and another cruiser. We plan to do some kind of tour tomorrow and Eddison will stop by later to let us know which one.

Dominica | Atlantic beaches

Dominica | Atlantic Beaches

Dominica | Atlantic beaches

Dominica |

April 4, 2018

We had a fabulous 12 hour land trip through Lawrence of Arabia with 3 other American cruising boats. Winston our driver and guide was fun and informative. He took us many places making more stops than expected. We crossed the island first Northern Dominica to the Atlantic coast and visited several beaches including Hampstead Beach and river. These were used in Pirates of the Caribbean Part Two.

Dominica | Atlantic Coast

Dominica | Calibishe | Red Rocks

Dominca | Calibishe | Red Rocks

We stopped at Calibishe and visited Pointe Baptiste Chocolate Factory and red rocks. The factory was not in production as the Cocoa trees lost there first crop due to Hurricane Maria. But the trees are flowering and will be producing later this summer. Pretty garden and views of the red rocks.

Dominica | Emerald Pool

Dominica | Emerald

We visited the Emerald Pool and waterfall and had a swim. Our walk to the falls was in pouring rain but then we had on our swimsuits so it didn’t matter. The skies cleared again upon arrival. We had a nice lunch of curry chicken, fish and many unusual vegetables. We drove through the Kalinargo reservation much of which was destroyed by Maria so no tours.

Dominica | Trafalgar Falls

Dominica | Hot Springs

We visited Trafalgar Falls. The island has 7 potentially active volcanos so we did visit some hot springs a new spa under construction. Lots going on in Dominica and it’s still has some beautiful dramatic scenery despite the damage to trees and vegetation. We can only imagine how spectacular the canopy and rainforest was before. Fortunately the trees though tipped are leafing out and of course not all of the forests were hit as bad.

Dominica | Portsmouth | Indian River Tour

April 5, 2018

Today we picked up laundry and visited the bakery. The 15hp Mercury was acting up so we got a tow from Albert PAYS back to the boat. Al replaced the prop because the rubber dampener wore out Fortunately we had another onboard. We went on the Indian River tour in the afternoon with Ken working for Eddison. Nice man informative and a good tour. Again we can only imagine how majestic the canopy of the river must have been before Maria for just 6 months later the river is already beginning to revive. We stopped at a tiki hut bar up the river and had their signature drink for the Indian River “Dynamite” (rum and several fruit juices)

April 6, 2018

Nice quiet sail 19nm down Dominica coast to it’s capital Roseau. We called Marcus to help with mooring and he is security for the anchorage. We walked into town for lunch. Roseau was heavily damaged during Hurricane Maria but it was very run down before the storm along the streets leading into town. The President’s House is quite impressive. The main part of town needs lots of work but looks like it may have been interesting to explore before the hurricane. We found a nice lunch in Fort Young Hotel at Warner’s Bar. They had a lunch buffet chicken and fish with a variety of salads and vegetables. Loud music in the anchorage on a Friday night.

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | St. Pierre |

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | St. Pierre |Hotel de Ville

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | St. Pierre |

April 7, 2018

Great 40nm sail to St. Pierre, Martinique. Glad we had put the dingy on deck. Nice close reach sail with staysail and main bounding through 1-2m seas. A couple of squalls came through adding a little excitement. But fun boat speed 6.5-7.5 kts cut a couple hours off our expected arrival time. We anchored north of the ferry dock and took the dingy in for customs. Easy customs in the French territories as we sit at a computer in an internet café to fill out the clearance forms. Stopped at “8 Huit Supermarket” for fresh fruit and vegetables.

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | St. Pierre |

April 8, 2018

We went to 7 AM mass at Cathedral Notre Dame de l’Assumption. It was a bit early but the only time for St. Pierre on Sunday. Lots of music and every song was song at least twice through every verse. Only drums as accompaniment and everyone singing and swaying. Later we went to lunch at Tamaya.

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique| St. Pierre

April 9, 2018

We visited St. Pierre Tourist Office and picked up a walking tour map of St. Pierre to visit it’s historic sites. The ruins are the result of 1902 volcanic eruption that destroyed St. Pierre killing 30,000 citizens. Hot hot. We find it’s best to walk about early morning for by noon it’s time for a rest on the boat until the sun starts to go down. The museum was closed on Mondays so we’ll try another time.

Caribbean |Leeward Islands | Marinique | Regional Natural Park |Cascade de Gendarme

Caribbean |Leeward Islands | Marinique | Regional Natural Park |

Caribbean |Leeward Islands | Marinique | Regional Natural Park

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | View of Presqu'Ile de la Caravelle

April 10, 2018

We rented a car today and drove N1 up through rainforest to Fond St. Denis and visited the waterfall Cascade de Gendarme. The driving was gorgeous through the Regional Park mountains, gorges, magnificent trees and vegetation. I think we might be getting used to narrow roads, one lane bridges and huge gorges without guardrails. We drove across the park to La Trinite on the Atlantic side of Martinique.

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique |Sacre Coeur de Batala

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique |Jardin de Balata

We went chandlery in Fort de France and Carrefour Supermarket before heading back to St. Pierre on N3 another gorgeous route through the Regional Park. We visited Sacre Coeur de Balata and Jardin de Balata along the way. The garden had beautiful paths winding throughout. We daringly explored the canopy from suspension bridges strung between big trees. It was a bit scary when the wind started to blow making the bridges sway and bounce more than they already were!

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | Fort de France | Covered Market

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | Fort de France | Cathedral St Louis

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | Fort de France |Fort Louis

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | Fort de France | Fort Louis

Caribbean | Windward Islands | Martinique | Fort de France

April 12, 2018

Nice sail hard on the wind tacking back and forth. So the 13nm trip took a little longer but a beautiful day. Anchored in Fort de France, Martinique. Rainy morning. We went to the Covered Market and had a yummy fish lunch at Cafe Genevieve. We wandered the town and visited Saint Louis Cathedral. Didn't visit Fort Louis above the anchorage. Something to do next visit. Weather window for heading south the next two days. So decided to clear customs out of Martinique. Heading to Bequia in Grenadines via St.Lucia.

Caribbean | Windward Islands | St. Lucia | Marigot Bay anchorage

April 14, 2018

It was a "spirited" close reach sail today 42nm to Marigot Bay St Lucia. We had a bumpy ride with 2-3 meter seas off the port bow. After trying several sail configurations we finally ended with staysail, full main and a wet deck. A beautiful day.

Caribbean | Windward Islands | St. Lucia | The Pitons

April 16, 2018

Great beam reach yesterday 60 nm from St Lucia past St. Vincent to Port Elizabeth on Bequia Island one of the Grenadines. Big seas above North St. Vincent and 2kts current but still making 5kts! Quieter ride south of St. Vincent. Today we walked about Port Elizabeth and cleared customs and immigration. We met a couple from Lake Vermillion MN on s/y Lost Loon. We made plans to go hiking tomorrow.

Caribbean | /Windward Islands | Grenadines | Bequia |Friendship Bay

Caribbean | /Windward Islands | Grenadines | Bequia | Friendship Bay

Caribbean | /Windward Islands | Grenadines | Bequia| Peggy's Rock Hike

| Peggy's Rock Hike

Caribbean | /Windward Islands | Grenadines | Bequia| Peggy's Rock Hike

Caribbean | /Windward Islands | Grenadines | Bequia| Peggy's Rock Hike

April 17, 2018

Met Mike and Nancy on s/y Lost Loon from Lake Vermillion MN. We went on a 4.5 hour hike overlook to Friendship Bay and up the ridge overlooking the airport. We continued up the ridge to Peggy's Rock overlooking Admiralty Bay and our boats. We found a rather steep faster gully walk trail back down to Lower Bay. Just had to have a beer before heading back to our boats. Bequia has some other hikes we may try.

April 19, 2018

Nice walk with MN friends Nancy and Mike this morning. We were headed to the Whaling Museum made a wrong turn and ended up at the airport. Oh well great mid-morning stop At Toko's Bar. Toko sat and visited for an hour. Talking about the whaling industry in Bequia. They are allowed 1 whale a year for the island. We had watched a video of how Bequia became a whaling community that Nancy gave us last night. So it was fun to see some of the boats and here Toko talk about his father and grandfather whaling. Toko is a whaler also but most of his day is filled with fishing and his bar. His wife heard us talking about fruit and she brought out 3 varieties of bananas and mangos from their trees to try. Another man spent half hour talking to us when we stopped to look at the whaling boat on the beach. Very friendly people.

April 20, 2018

Another fun hiking day by road this time. We walked to Spring Bay stopping to visit Firefly Plantation. We had an excellent tour with Esra where we learned the names and uses of many local plants. Perfect timing for our visit as many local fruits are in season. Don't ask me to remember them all but I do know we had coconut water, chinese apples, two varieties of mangoes, Bequian plums, sugar cane, lemon grass, an applepear, variety of bananas, cinnamon bayleaves, thyme, leaves of lemon and lime trees used to flavor tea... So we had quite a tasting party. They have a lovely restaurant and rooms for rent but we didn't stay for lunch. It was too early but Mick Jagger was there earlier this month for lunch. We then walked to the Turtle Sanctuary but the manager wasn't there for a tour and we were hungry so we left. . Had a fabulous lunch in a gorgeous setting at Sugar Reef Estate in Sugar Bay. Al's fish roti was good but my grilled mahi with glazed onions on focaccia bread with a yummy plantain side was excellent. I almost didn't share. . After such a delicious lunch we lazied for a while on the beach before the 3 miles walk up and down hills back to town and Artemis .

April 21, 2018

Gorgeous 26 nm beam reach today from Bequia to Tobago Cays in the Grenadines. Reefed main and jib sailing 7-8 kts. Our anchorage behind a horseshoe shaped reef looks like a National Geographic moment. Excited to go snorkeling.

April 22, 2018

We went snorkeling for a couple of hours this morning in Tobago Cays. We dingied over to the outer reef surrounding our anchorage. Crystal clear water beautiful huge fan coral and so many other types of living coral unlike the Coral graveyards we saw in the Virgins. Water is so warm I didn't need my shortie wetsuit. Saw lobster, a ray, turtles, and lovely reef fish.

April 24, 2018

Motored through dingy passage in the reef surrounding Tobago Cays to snorkel the outer reef and drop off. Again clear water and bigger fish that swam right up to you. Saw a nurse shark, scrawled filefish, lots of trumpet fish and of curse all the usual reef fish. Took Artemis to Saline Bay on May reauthorization Island just 3nm away. We climbed steep road to the old Catholic Church. Stopped at cute bar for some beers and watched the sunset with Lost Loon.

April 24, 2018

April 25, 2018

We took our dingied 1nm over to Clifton on Union Island to clear customs/immigration. Cute Town lots of fruit/veg markets. Got fuel for dingy. Had nice lunch in town before zooming back to Palm Island and Artemis. Heading to Carriacou Island tomorrow part of Grenada.

April 26, 2018

Beautiful broad reach 10 nm past PSV and PSM to Tyrrell Bay on Carriacou Island Grenada. Cleared Immigration and Customs. Maroon Festival this weekend. Smoked food, string band' parade...Our friends on Lost Loon sailing along with us.

April 29, 2018

Had fun time in Carriacou. Did water aroebics with about 25 cruisers. Enjoyed some of the Maroon Festival music and lunch in Hillsborough. Today another fantastic sail to Grenada with Lost Loon. Beautiful anchorage in Halifax Harbor and couple hours snorkeling.

April 30, 2018

Picked mooring buoy off Moliniere Point in the underwater sculpture park created by Jason Decaires Taylor near St George's Grenada. So cool. Then anchored outside St Louis Marina in St George's. Dingy to town for supplies.